Wire Wrapped Seamless Square Frame
Seamless elements in wire wrapping add a sophistication to your work that stands out. Learn to make a versatile, sleek square frame that can be used as a faux bezel setting for cabochons.
The Math
We’re remembering our geometry lessons on this one, folks. The Pythagorean Theorem lets us calculate the length of the third side of a right triangle. If you have a round or oval cabochon, imagine a cross in the middle of the stone—it’s actually four right triangles that meet in the middle of the gem. This means we can calculate the lengths of the edges of the setting we wish to create.
Measure your stone
Using millimeters, measure how tall your cabochon is, and how wide it is at the widest point. Let’s use the example of a stone 20mm tall and 15mm wide. Divide each of these numbers in half—that’s 10mm and 7.5mm. Now plug those two numbers (a and b) into a calculator to get the value of c: 12.5 in this case.
Materials
The gauge of square wire you use for the base of this element and half-round wire you use to bind it will depend on the size of your stone and your desired aesthetic effect. Below are some approximate gauges and stone sizes that I have used with success:
8mmx6mm opal cabochon (pictured above): 24 gauge square wire and 24 gauge half-round wrapping wire.
12mmx9mm oval cabochon: 22 gauge square wire and 24 gauge half-round wrapping wire.
25mmx18mm oval cabochon: 20 gauge square wire and 22 gauge half-round wrapping wire.
Calculate the wire lengths
Your square base wires should be of length c times 8—double the smallest length it would take to get around the stone once. This leaves you with some extra length for safety.
Your half-round wrapping wire should be: c * 8 (the same length as square wires) divided by:
.51mm for 24 gauge half-round;
.64mm for 22 gauge half-round;
or .81mm for 20 gauge half-round.
Take that number and multiply by six to give you the total number of millimeters. Convert to inches by dividing by 25.4. This should give you a generous amount of wire that you can pare down if you want; I just like to have plenty of wiggle room especially when working with a newer design.
Example
20mmx15mm stone
c = 12.5mm
Two 20 gauge square wires: (12.5 * 8) = 100mm, or about 4”
One 22 gauge half-round wire: 100mm / .64mm = 156mm —> 156mm * 6 = 936mm —> 936mm/25.4 = 37”
The Process
Watch the complete YouTube video below, or scroll down to read the steps.
Mark the two square wires in the middle and c mm left of center. Video timestamp.
Fold the wrap wire in half with the flat side facing inward, and wrap this marked section. Count the number of wraps. Video timestamp.
Bend the inner wires inward 90 degrees, with a curve but not a sharp bend. Video timestamp.
Wrap around the outer square wire only, 4 times if the wrap wire is the same gauge as the square wire, or 5 times if using a wrap wire that is one gauge smaller than the base square wires. Video timestamp.
Bend the outer square wire into place at the center point, which will be the bottom of the setting. Use the stone to determine the exact angle. Video timestamp.
Wrap the right bottom leg the same number of times as in step two. Video timestamp.
Pull the right side inner wire inward and wrap only the outer wire the same number of times as step four (4 or 5 times). Video timestamp.
Use the stone to arrange the top cross. Bend the two outer wires to lay next to their inner wire counterparts, and use the wrap wire to wrap 3 times around each side. Video timestamp.
Measure and mark the top side length from each side. Mark 5mm-1cm down from your top center mark on the left inner square and the same length up from that mark on the right inner square. Cut flush at these two marks, then you can bend the right inner square into shape. The flush ends of the two inner squares should touch. Video timestamp.
Flush-clip the right side outer square, then wrap the whole left side, ensuring that you place the same number of wraps as from step two around both base wires, then the number of wraps from step four around just the outer wire. Video timestamp.
Bend the final corner into place. Cut the left side outer square wire to match up with the clipped right side exactly. Video timestamp.
Wrap past the join, and end both wrap wire ends on the back. Ensure you place the correct number of wraps so all sides are the same. Sharpie the back near the ends, or the seam may become hard to find later. Video timestamp.
To attach the decorative bezel you’ve just created to the frame you create for your stone, use half-round wire of either the gauge you used to wrap the bezel or one size larger, and put one length, bent in half with flat side inward, through each of the four small spaces created by having bent your inner corners softly and without too much of a sharp angle. You’ll wrap all eight half-round wire ends around your frame to secure the bezel in place on top of the stone. Video timestamp.